Finding Fungus: A First-Timer’s Mushroom Foray in Muir Woods

Deadheads seek out rare concert recordings and know the name of Jerry Garcia’s guitar; Beanie Baby lovers spend hours scanning eBay so they can complete their collections, and Trekkies speak Klingon at their yearly conventions. While many of us poke fun at these subcultures, you can’t help but respect those who are truly passionate about something – just as we, as culinarians, are truly passionate about food.

The San Francisco Mycological Society harbors a group with a passion for mushrooms that is just as fervent as any deadhead’s love of Dark Star. Attracting those with a fondness for biology as well as those who just love their truffles, mycologists spend their free time traipsing about the woods on quests for the elusive fungus. They hunt chanterelles, porcinis, morels, and other more exotic varieties, and then locate the best recipes to showcase their finds. Indeed, many of the Mycological Society’s events feature chefs who are experts at mushroom cookery, and their newsletters are filled with recipes, (recently including Shitake Pickles, Black Trumpet Spring Rolls, and Golden Chanterelles and Leeks in Apricot, Pomegranate, and Tarragon Brandy Cream).

Last December I joined a group of San Francisco mycologists on a beginner’s foray through Muir Woods. The free event started with a slideshow and lecture by an expert member of the group, and then continued with a mushroom hunt through the woods. Although we could not gather any mushrooms for ourselves (Muir Woods is on protected land), we identified dozens of different species, and learned about other local spots that allow gathering, including Golden Gate Park, Point Reyes, and along Skyline Boulevard.

The slideshow at the beginning of the event was both incredibly interesting and informative. Robert Mackler, our lecturer, began with an overview of the lifecycle of the typical mushroom, and then discussed different varieties of wild mushrooms, including those that are the most deadly to humans. He noted that while several species of mushroom will make you sick, only two local species are toxic enough to be lethal, and only one of those is found with any regularity in the San Francisco Bay Area.

“If I were grading you in a class,” Mackler began, “This is the only mushroom you would have to know to pass. Aminita is the deadliest ‘shroom we know about. It tastes good, but it will quickly start to eat away at your organs, and a few days later you’ll be dead.”

Responsible for one Bay Area man’s death in 2004, Aminita is found under Live Oak trees during the fall and winter months, especially during warm, wet years. Although it grows throughout the Bay Area, it’s easy to identify with experience, generally featuring a smooth, yellowish-green or yellowish-brown cap and creamy white gills. While many varieties of mushrooms will make you feel ill immediately after you ingest them, Aminita takes 14-18 hours before causing any noticeable symptoms – and by then, it’s usually too late.

“If you get sick and go to the Poison Control Center, they’re not going to worry about you unless you ate the questionable mushrooms 14-18 hours previously,” Mackler explained. “If you feel anything sooner than that, you may feel really uncomfortable for a few hours, but you’re not going to die.”

Aside from Aminitas, Mackler also introduced us to several other interesting varieties, including those with hallucinogenic properties and those that have interesting applications in medicine. One variety named “Coprinus” contains a chemical that turns the skin of one’s face, arms, and torso bright red if you’ve ingested alcohol up to two days before or after eating the mushroom. As you might expect, Coprinus makes up the primary ingredient in a drug called Antabuse, an implant that helps alcoholics kick their habit.

Once we began our foray, Mackler couldn’t walk more than ten feet in any direction without spotting a mushroom. He would carefully pick the ‘shroom with a special knife he kept stored in his belt buckle, and then examine its color, shape, texture, and even smell to identify the exact variety. Similarly to wine, different varietals of mushrooms gave off different aromas. One mushroom we discovered had the distinct smell of roasted chicken, while another reminded us of freshly mown hay.

With the passion of a true devotee, Mackler had a story about every variety we saw. They ranged from legends about how oddly-named ‘shrooms got their names (imagine the stories behind “Dead Man’s Fingers,” “Stink Horn,” “Chicken Lips,” and “Farting Wolf”), to a humorous anecdote about finding giant puff ball mushrooms in a national park and smuggling them out under his shirt.

Along the way, Mackler also shared tips about how to foray for mushrooms on our own. He noted that mushrooms tend to grow only during the rainy fall and winter months, and that particular varieties always grow under certain trees. For example, truffles and morels only grow under pines, while chanterelles (and the deadly Amanita) grow under Coastal Live Oaks.

“Once you locate a good spot for mushrooms, remember it,” Mackler advised. “The same mushrooms will appear there year after year. I know many serious mushroom hunters who will never share the locations of their prime spots with anyone -- even their loved ones.”

By the end of the foray, we had identified over three dozen different varieties of mushroom, all within a half mile radius in Muir Woods. My head was spinning with mushroom-related trivia, and I began to understand why the members of the San Francisco Mycological Society could be so passionate about fungus. Although I did not yet share in their enthusiasm enough to go out and buy my own mushroom knife belt buckle, I couldn’t wait to take a paper bag and a mushroom field guide into Golden Gate Park to find some mushrooms of my own.

For more information about the San Francisco Mycological Society, including events for beginning mushroom hunters and meetings of the mushroom culinary group, see http://www.mssf.org.

The Aminita mushroom has already been responsible for one man's death in 2004.