A lemon that's all rind?

November 7, 2004

In an effort to liven up the last week of our Basic Skills class, Chef Steve offered extra credit to anyone who brought in a particularly odd ingredient, plus an additional bonus if we used it in a prepared dish. Consequently, I spent this past Saturday morning prowling through the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market with Andrew, looking out for the strangest ingredient I could find.

Thinking at first that I would procure a fragrant Italian truffle, or an oddly-shaped or colored mushroom, I was stopped cold at a stall just outside the windows of Sur La Table. There I saw a man holding up what looked like a piece of yellow coral about the size of a child's head. Its thick yellow arms reminded me of a Medusa's head -- I had to take a closer look.

Called a Buddha's Hand Citron, this odd looking fruit is actually one of the oldest members of the citrus family. Although it smells strongly of lemon, it has no juicy pulp hidden beneath its rind. Instead, the Buddha's Hand is grown commercially for its powerful zest. The aromatic rind is used to flavor lemon liqueurs and specialty vodkas, and provides aroma to lemon-scented cosmetics. Chinese and Japanese households hang it in their homes as a natural air freshener, and it even has a place in some religious ceremonies.

Puzzled by how one might eat this fruit, I asked the vendors at the stall how they usually prepared it. They reported that Chris Cosentino, the chef of Incanto, divides the fruit in quarters and then uses a mandolin to thinly slice raw pieces of the fruit for an innovative (yet familiar lemon tasting) topping for fish. He uses the whole fruit, since Buddha's Hand lacks the bitter pith of other citrus fruits.

The Frog Hollow Farm bakery, just a few steps away in the Ferry Building, candies the Buddha's Hand tentacles with simple syrup (see recipe, below). Buddha's Hand can also be used for marmalades, or as a replacement for lemon zest in salad dressings, rice pilaf, and other recipes.

For class, I candied the rind like the Frog Hollow Farm bakery, using the following recipe:

Candied Buddah's Hand Citron

You can use this recipe with the peels from any citrus fruit. Lime peels are not recommended since the candying process turns the brilliant green color of the fresh peel to a dingy grey.

Note: To make extra fine sugar at home, place 1 cup of white sugar in a food processor and whirl for 30-60 seconds.

peels from 1 large Buddha's Hand citron, 6-7 lemons, or
       4-5 oranges, cut into strips (see note)
2 c white sugar
1-2 c extra-fine sugar for dusting (see note)

1. Place citrus strips in sauce pan and cover with water. Bring to boil and then simmer for 10 minutes. Drain and rinse peels, and then repeat process 2 more times to tenderize peels and remove any bitterness.

2. Make a simple syrup over medium-high heat by mixing white sugar with 2 c water. Be sure to stir the syrup until the sugar dissolves completely.

3. When the syrup boils, add boiled peels and adjust heat to maintain a moderate boil. Stir occassionally until the syrup reaches 230°F, about 1-2 hours total. Note that as the syrup diminishes from the pan, you will need to stir more frequently.

4. Line a cookie sheet with foil and spread half of the extra-fine sugar in a thin layer.

5. When the syrup reaches 230°F, carefully remove peels and place onto sugared cookie sheet. Sprinkle more extra-fine sugar on top of the peels and toss to coat completely.

6. When cool enough to handle, dry peels on a rack overnight. Store in a cool, air-tight container in single layers between waxed paper.

Makes 12-24 pieces.

This odd looking fruit is actually one of the oldest members of the citrus family. It's called a Buddha's Hand.