1550 Hyde cafe and wine bar

By Caroline Carter
July 21, 2004

1550 Hyde Café and Wine Bar is one of those places that feels like a little-known neighborhood secret, even though it has garnered rave reviews in national foodie publications such as Wine Spectator and Food and Wine. Nestled into two small store-fronts on the Western side of Russian Hill, Chef Peter Erickson offers creatively elegant, Mediterranean-influenced meals without the pretension that one often finds in comparable restaurants. Perhaps the lack of obnoxious self-importance is due to its size, with only a dozen candlelit tables and a small bar that seats six. Or perhaps it’s due to its austerely-decorated space, practically colorless with the exception of a large container of fresh flowers on the bar. Regardless, 1550 Hyde practically oozes with modesty, quality, and an obvious reverence for food.

The frequently-changing menu from the Chez Panisse alum features fresh and seasonal ingredients from producers who practice environmentally sustainable agriculture. On a recent visit in July, we enjoyed the Antipasto platter ($10) with thick heirloom tomato slices, prosciutto, two kinds of salami, and an ample wedge of creamy goat-cheese-based custard. Other popular appetizers include a tempura-battered Chesapeake bay soft shell crab ($12) served with pea shoots and a tangy garlic aioli, as well as a crisp arugula salad ($9) with golden nectarine wedges, lightly-toasted almonds, and smooth dollops of goat cheese.

Dinner choices are heartier, featuring items such as a Sonoma rabbit seasoned with aged balsamic vinegar ($19), and lamb moussaka with roasted eggplant ($20). Although our waiter reported that those were the most popular dishes, we preferred the fluffy ricotta gnocchi ($15) with smoky kernels of seared corn and rich, buttery chanterelles, perfectly matched with a tangy pesto sauce.

Desserts (each $6.50) are creative and delicious, including such options as a maple-syrup tart with crème fraiche, and a polenta-almond cake with strawberries and whipped cream. In the summer months, ask about the stone-fruit crisp special, one night bright with nectarines, while another night sweet with perfectly ripened peaches. Cheeses are also available either individually ($5) or as a group ($18).

The comprehensive wine list is full of reasonably-priced selections from both regional and international wineries. Many wines are available by the glass, and a different flight is featured each week. Servers are well-trained in offering food-wine pairing advice, but enthusiasts should ask for co-owner Kent Liggett when faced with more advanced questions about the wine list.

Leaving 1550 Hyde for the first time, you’re guaranteed to feel like you’ve just unearthed a neighborhood gem. Just don’t be surprised if you see it featured as a destination restaurant in the next issue of Bon Appetit!

Food: ***
Service: **1/2
Atmostphere: **1/2
Overall: ***

1550 Hyde Cafe and Wine Bar
1550 Hyde St. (@ Pacific)
San Francisco 94109
(415) 775-1550
website

Hours:
Sun 5:30 - 9:30 pm
Tues - Thurs 6 - 10 pm
Fri - Sat 6 - 10:30 pm

Accepts Visa, Mastercard, American Express, cash.

Food: ***
Service: **1/2
Atmostphere: **1/2
Price: $$$
Overall: ***

All rankings out of a total of 4 stars.